Sounds like a lot of wiring to make the setup wireless.
What is needed to add wireless to legacy Toasters/Racks for wireless app
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Allenhuish -
June 14, 2021 at 2:14 PM -
Thread is marked as Resolved.
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Sounds like a lot of wiring to make the setup wireless.
Haha, true. But I guess for people with ipads, it makes sense.
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I do not use the IPad very often. But having a POE switch is benefit enough for me, as I no longer have problems with the remote connection
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Sounds like a lot of wiring to make the setup wireless.
Yep it’s cumbersome, but considering it’s 10 year old tech for legacy devices and it probably wasn’t on the radar when developed its quite an achievement, works flawlessly, and has brought new life for deeper editing for me at least.
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Hi there,
I would like to start a thread that is limited to *only* what hardware has been found to work or should work to allow wireless to be added to our legacy devices.
I did a video with an explanation...
External Content youtu.beContent embedded from external sources will not be displayed without your consent.Through the activation of external content, you agree that personal data may be transferred to third party platforms. We have provided more information on this in our privacy policy.If you don't want to read the whole thread here are some devices that work:
Vogels/Vonet wifi access point Amazon UK - https://amzn.to/3dmKNFU
Amazon US - https://amzn.to/36aq04t
TP-Link Switch with Power
Amazon UK - https://amzn.to/36aqpnv
Amazon US - https://amzn.to/3h1QuLI
Power adapter to use one cable for kemper and router
Amazon UK - https://amzn.to/3qsyTj4
The manual is not 100% clear so I will try to summarise my findings so far and what I have seen on this forum. I will also attempt to make it as simple as possible for those of us who are not that technically minded.
The Kemper needs to be connected to a device called a 'router' which is wifi enabled. This wifi router also needs to be able to function as an 'access point' if you want to run it stand-alone (at a gig) without another network (e.g. your home wifi network). As the manual says, this router needs to be connected via the ethernet socket on the back of the kemper. (easily bought on amazon, but see below)
The remote also needs to be connected to that socket so you have to connect the wire from the remote to a socket on the router. However, (and this is important), the remote needs to be powered. It receives its power from the kemper through the ethernet socket normally so you have to find a way to add power to the cable that goes to the remote. This can be done via a POE (power over ethernet) injector (easily bought on amazon).
So, if you do it like this you will have 2 boxes (one router and one poe injector) which both need a power supply plugged in somewhere. You will then need a short cable to go from kemper to router, then another cable from router to poe injector and then a long cable from poe injector to the remote.
If you are like me then you will want to reduce the number of cables and power supplies that you have to lug around and this is where it gets interesting.
There are such things as routers that are powered by POE, so that has the potential to lose one power supply (because the router doesn't need a power supply if it's powered from the kemper from the ethernet cable). Many of these routers are designed for home networking where things are wired into small spaces so they are probably small enough to go in the back of the kemper.
There are also routers which will do POE 'pass through'. In other words it will take the power coming in from the kemper and then pass it on to the cable going out to the remote. The first issue is that the router needs 2 ethernet sockets. Many small wifi routers powered by POE do not, but a small number do.
However, then we get into the issues of how much power and how is it delivered. In this case, there are multiple standards of how this is done (802.3af, etc.) and
I have not seen confirmation from kemper on what standard we need to follow (it says 'mode a' in the manual, but this is not quite enough information I believe).Supported are IEEE standard 802.3af-2003 as well as 802.3at-2009 mode A. There is also a lack of documentation from router companies about the detail of what they need coming and out of their power supplies.In a perfect world, we could find a device which will be powered over POE and will pass-through POE to the remote. If this was the case, then legacy owners could buy one box, with no power supply and tuck it into the back of the kemper and have it all in one with no additional power supplies etc.
So coming back to the point of this thread. Please post the products (preferably with a web link) that you have found that we can try or research to be able to achieve this goal. I will shortly add some that I have found. Please don't clutter up the thread with comments such as 'I'm confused' or 'why not android' etc. those comments can go in plenty of other threads.
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Hi Allenhuish,
i still do not understand from where the AP will get the editor datas in a live situation.
There has to be an internet router on stage ?
please help,- thanx...
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Hi Allenhuish,
i still do not understand from where the AP will get the editor datas in a live situation.
There has to be an internet router on stage ?
please help,- thanx...
You create your own network to use, that is why you need a wifi router. So yes if you plan on editing on stage then you will need to setup a router and have a PoE if you use the Remote
Even at home I have my Kemper on it’s own router and separate from home wifi. My router stays with my Kemper in the rack.Keep in mind that the editor only edits rigs locally, with rigs you have loaded into your Kemper and any edits will still need to be uploaded/updated in Rig Manager when you connect via USB to computer with Rig Manager. Any new rigs you want will need to be downloaded onto the Kemper before you can edit via iPad
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Here is what worked for me, not the neatest but I don’t need it to be. My Kemper is stationary on a Kart and this equipment is hid under the bottom shelf. I have my iPad editor connected wirelessly and my remote is functional.
-2018 green toaster non-power amp-2018 Kemper Remote
-TP-POE 150S (POE Injector)
-D-Link DAP-1610 Range Extender
-TP-Link Non-POE Switch (any switch should work)
1. Range Extender (connect the range extender wirelessly to same network as the iPad) —>Ethernet Cable from Range extender to WAN Port on switch.
2. Ethernet Cable from any Lan port on the switch to the Kemper Ethernet port.
3. Ethernet cable from any Lan port on the switch to the Poe Injector data in port —> Ethernet cable from Poe power/data out port to Kemper remote Ethernet port.
Hope it helps someone. -
Hi All,
Just want to throw in (it may have already been mentioned) that the TP-Link TL-WR802N nano router can be powered from Kemper USB exclusively and successfully. I have this up and running 100% in conjunction with TP-Link TL-SF1005LP PoE switch. Router can run in AP mode (just access from iPad to use Kemper) OR as Range Extender to control Kemper via your local network with any connected iPad. It uses around 0.85W max. -
Hi All,
Just want to throw in (it may have already been mentioned) that the TP-Link TL-WR802N nano router can be powered from Kemper USB exclusively and successfully. I have this up and running 100% in conjunction with TP-Link TL-SF1005LP PoE switch. Router can run in AP mode (just access from iPad to use Kemper) OR as Range Extender to control Kemper via your local network with any connected iPad. It uses around 0.85W max.Really? I wasn't successfull when i tried it. What cable did you use or how long was it? Maybe my cable was too long...
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If you have a PoE Switch you can use this adapter for powering the router
https://www.ebay.de/itm/233573706746 -
Really? I wasn't successfull when i tried it. What cable did you use or how long was it? Maybe my cable was too long...
Hi spotter, it is the cable that came with the router, maybe 80cm or so.
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Hi spotter, it is the cable that came with the router, maybe 80cm or so.
Mine was just rebooting all the time and never stayed online... (unpowered Rack). Maybe i will give it a try next time the Editor will be updated. But thank you anyway!
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Hi all, slightly late to the party but many thanks for all the very useful information, trial and errors, and videos.
Greatly appreciated!
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I coukd be totally wrong, but I think the issue would be drivers for the dongle. If I'm right I doubt kemper have any means to put the right driver on the kemper so it wouldn't know what to do with the device.
Then there are different drivers for different dongles etc.
Best would be if Kemper could sell such USB dongle. Basic ones for PCs on the big A-Vendor-Website are sooo cheap. So why not sell it to legacy users. As it is only mentioned to work with the Rig Manager should not be a big deal for their IT experts. Would be a great feature…
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Display More
Hi there,
I would like to start a thread that is limited to *only* what hardware has been found to work or should work to allow wireless to be added to our legacy devices.
I did a video with an explanation...
External Content youtu.beContent embedded from external sources will not be displayed without your consent.Through the activation of external content, you agree that personal data may be transferred to third party platforms. We have provided more information on this in our privacy policy.If you don't want to read the whole thread here are some devices that work:
Vogels/Vonet wifi access point Amazon UK - https://amzn.to/3dmKNFU
Amazon US - https://amzn.to/36aq04t
TP-Link Switch with Power
Amazon UK - https://amzn.to/36aqpnv
Amazon US - https://amzn.to/3h1QuLI
Power adapter to use one cable for kemper and router
Amazon UK - https://amzn.to/3qsyTj4
The manual is not 100% clear so I will try to summarise my findings so far and what I have seen on this forum. I will also attempt to make it as simple as possible for those of us who are not that technically minded.
The Kemper needs to be connected to a device called a 'router' which is wifi enabled. This wifi router also needs to be able to function as an 'access point' if you want to run it stand-alone (at a gig) without another network (e.g. your home wifi network). As the manual says, this router needs to be connected via the ethernet socket on the back of the kemper. (easily bought on amazon, but see below)
The remote also needs to be connected to that socket so you have to connect the wire from the remote to a socket on the router. However, (and this is important), the remote needs to be powered. It receives its power from the kemper through the ethernet socket normally so you have to find a way to add power to the cable that goes to the remote. This can be done via a POE (power over ethernet) injector (easily bought on amazon).
So, if you do it like this you will have 2 boxes (one router and one poe injector) which both need a power supply plugged in somewhere. You will then need a short cable to go from kemper to router, then another cable from router to poe injector and then a long cable from poe injector to the remote.
If you are like me then you will want to reduce the number of cables and power supplies that you have to lug around and this is where it gets interesting.
There are such things as routers that are powered by POE, so that has the potential to lose one power supply (because the router doesn't need a power supply if it's powered from the kemper from the ethernet cable). Many of these routers are designed for home networking where things are wired into small spaces so they are probably small enough to go in the back of the kemper.
There are also routers which will do POE 'pass through'. In other words it will take the power coming in from the kemper and then pass it on to the cable going out to the remote. The first issue is that the router needs 2 ethernet sockets. Many small wifi routers powered by POE do not, but a small number do.
However, then we get into the issues of how much power and how is it delivered. In this case, there are multiple standards of how this is done (802.3af, etc.) and
I have not seen confirmation from kemper on what standard we need to follow (it says 'mode a' in the manual, but this is not quite enough information I believe).Supported are IEEE standard 802.3af-2003 as well as 802.3at-2009 mode A. There is also a lack of documentation from router companies about the detail of what they need coming and out of their power supplies.In a perfect world, we could find a device which will be powered over POE and will pass-through POE to the remote. If this was the case, then legacy owners could buy one box, with no power supply and tuck it into the back of the kemper and have it all in one with no additional power supplies etc.
So coming back to the point of this thread. Please post the products (preferably with a web link) that you have found that we can try or research to be able to achieve this goal. I will shortly add some that I have found. Please don't clutter up the thread with comments such as 'I'm confused' or 'why not android' etc. those comments can go in plenty of other threads.
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Although I found this useful, and its got me thinking of alternative ways of adding Wifi to my rack. The thing that really caught my attention is how your head was in another room and the Kabinet in front of you... how are you doing that? Hopefully not just one long cable 😊
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Best would be if Kemper could sell such USB dongle. Basic ones for PCs on the big A-Vendor-Website are sooo cheap. So why not sell it to legacy users. As it is only mentioned to work with the Rig Manager should not be a big deal for their IT experts. Would be a great feature…
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