lol 😂
Other companies are still trying to create an equal product to the Kemper that’s been out for 14yrs. Not to mention all of the FREE updates and improved functionality that has been offered.
lol 😂
Other companies are still trying to create an equal product to the Kemper that’s been out for 14yrs. Not to mention all of the FREE updates and improved functionality that has been offered.
I don’t need a Kemper 2 , I still think we will continue to see more added.
I would like to see more Liquid Profiles added and more Spraker imprints.
A small Remote USB footswitch compatible with the Player would be great too
I use the Voodoo Labs Pedal Power III
I also use the GLXD16+ no issues
I find that if I use the pitch effect in slot “A” it works great. It does not seem to work so well when I transpose the Rig itself as I get a bit of artifacting.
I was a little surprised by this as well. I upgraded strictly for the morphing feature.
You can use expression pedal heel down to bring up the tuner. So the only thing you'd be missing is tap tempo.
Personally I prefer the dedicated tuner with display and also sweetened tunings.
But yes, if you don’t need that heel down works.
Upgrade to level 3 so you have all effect slots. Then you can do all five rigs without any other pedals by using the combo switches. Add the expression pedal to wah/morph. Add a external tuner and you are done.
If you want to add the FX 1&2 slot on/off then add a simple two button usb midi footswitch. The midi captain duo is what I use.
Small simple setup
Is the cable the original Kemper supplied one? I would try a new cable as you should not need a POE unless you are running a very long cable or running a wifi setup. If it is a 3rd party cable does it meet the specs? Not all PoE work , if you search there was a discussion
This is from the manual:
“The PROFILER and PROFILER Remote communicate with each other via an ethernet cable. The cable included in
the PROFILER Remote package with its Neutrik® etherCON® cable connector carrier has been carefully selected
and is perfectly suited for this purpose. If you decide to use any 3rd party cable, please make sure it meets our
quality standards.
The diameter of the wire is the critical factor. The cable delivered with the Remote meets American Wire Gauge 24
(AWG), which can support up to 7.5m (22ft) length. AWG 26 cables have a smaller diameter and can only support
up to 5m (15ft). Cables with higher AWG e.g. AWG 28 should not be used with the Remote.
Cables in excess of 10m (30ft) might require a Power over Ethernet Injector (PoE Injector).”
Also in the manual :
✓ Be aware that you must use mode A devices only! Mode B devices might appear functional, but could damage
the Remote such that it will no longer function when connected directly to the PROFILER without PoE equipment!
PROFILER and Remotes should be connected to those ethernet sockets that provide PoE power. Supported are
IEEE standard 802.3af-2003 as well as 802.3at-2009 mode A.
✓ Recent updates to the Gigabit standard have introduced a new mode of operation which in certain configurations
could either be incompatible with, or even damage the Remote! Unfortunately, the technical specifications provided
by the manufacturers are rarely enough for us to tell whether a product is compatible or not. Because of this, we
strongly recommend to either stay away from Gigabit PoE equipment or stick to models that have been tested by our
own engineering team or reported as functional by other users.
Here is a list of equipment we have tested successfully:
PoE injectors:
• TP-LINK® TL-POE 150S
• TP LINK® TL-POE 160S
• Cudy® PoE 150 30W
• Cudy® PoE 200 30W
•
PoE switches:
• TP-LINK® TL-SG1008P (8 port gigabit switch with 4 port PoE)
• Allnet® ALL8085 Switch (8 Port 10/100TX)
• Intellinet® 8-Port Fast Ethernet POE+ Switch (available with 19’’ rackmount)
The following PoE devices were reported as functional by users:
• TP-LINK® TL-SG1005P (5 port gigabit switch with 4 port PoE+)
• Trendnet® TPE-TG44G POE+ switch
The following PoE injectors are not compatible and must not be used:
• Swissonic® 466331
• Ubiquiti Networks® U-POE-af
• Ubiquiti Networks® POE-48-24W-G
✓ If you are using a PoE switch, connect the PROFILER to its PoE ethernet sockets, as well as the Remote(s).
I would try a new USB cable
he needs simply xlr cables,
he`s going to setup an external poweramp to the Main outs of the Kemper
not the speaker outs
He asked about hooking up his power amp to speakers and speaker cables needed .
The XLR outputs on that item is for the Cab Sim and not powered .
You would want the Speakon to 1/4” speaker cable and a standard 14g will be fine. Or you can also use 1/4” to 1/4” speaker cable 14g
I’m interested in this. I currently own the non-powered Kabinet which I use with my powered Kemper Rack and it works great 👍
I also own a KPP that I want to use in a cabinet from time to time and had been debating getting a powered Kabinet but now I see this come out. The ToneX Cab is the way I’m leaning, only because it then allows me to use other brands of modellers if I choose and that gives me some flexibility.
Once I get the ToneX cab I’m going to play the same profile on my Rack and Player, one in the Kemper Kab and the other in the ToneX cab and see how close I can get them.
I do like that the ToneX cab offers basic EQ on the cabinet for quick room adjustments, similar to what I do with my Rack and Output EQ.
Cool beans, eh!
Display MoreI totally agree. I have never used a meter to balance sounds because its all relative to cut as well. Tweaking and changing volume is so easy that even if its not quite right its no issue.
So how I do it is:
1) Find my group of profiles as a starting point
2) adjust volume down usually to the lower values using rig volume (it means I have more headroom) to a rough balance
3) Turn up at rehearsal and balance at gig volume.
4) Never touch it again
5) Don;t touch clean sense unless you really need to
For me I found that “Clean Sense” is the place to start before anything else. You can set the difference in loudness from clean to distorted sounds across all profiles with one simple change.
My next step is choosing the right Rigs to use that don’t need a lot of extra tweaking right from the start. If it fights me I move on. I also tend to limit the number of amp types that I use live to just two different ones, so that my sound stays more consistent. I use an EQ slot to modify if I need to for a song or use my guitar tone and volume knobs or pickup selector as needed. But this is my approach and I get that some people want to try to match the gear used in each song and artist they might perform. I find that I sound the same regardless of what I play through so I stopped chasing that idea long ago. Ha ha
Then my next step is adjusting the “Definition” parameter for the rigs I’m using to better balance where it sits in the mix against other instruments in the song or band. It’s a simple way to move one parameter without any other major EQ adjustments. A lot of the time I’ll adjust this while playing to recorded tracks to get me close to where I want to be.
Then finally I adjust my rig volume if needed for that fine tuning, based on needs.
For solos I use a booster in the effects slot to use any Rig for solo but you could also use a Morph as well and/or also just set a Rig that is louder if you use the Rig as a boosted patch. So many options, lol
My other tip is that once I dial in my sounds at home and have them balanced in the way I want with my recorded tracks, I don’t tweak the Rigs when playing live as you will then forever be tweaking everything all the time which undoes all the hard work we had done previously. So live at rehearsal or gigs I only tweak my output EQ on the monitor output to suit the room I’m playing and how it might make my sound change from the way I want to hear it. You can then save that output setting and recall it again each time you play there, works great for rehearsal or rooms I play often. *Tip - Don’t forget to save a monitor output setting for home use so you can easily go back to your reference point.
Most of the time these days I rarely need the last step as I use in ears and it stays the same but I do have my in ears monitor mix output setting that I can change if needed.
The one last thing would be trying to get the other band members to keep their settings more consistent so that everyone is not constantly trying to readjust or grab the volume knob. Good luck with this step, lol
This is how I approach things and is just my opinion and two cents but it saved me a lot of time. There is no right or wrong just different approaches.
I think you misunderstood my comment. I don't own a Voodoo lab PSU, but the pics in the link you posted show two X-Link ports labeled at 12V/1A. Which is why I asked, are you using only one port (which would be 12W total power) or two in parallel (which would then result in 22W total power)?
The CIOKS SOL is not 9V/660mA in total, it's 9V/660mA per port (30W total, or 3.3A max at 9V).
The X-link gives the full 2A when using one port only. You get 12v 2A. But you cannot use the second X-Link port for anything or you only get 1A
The PP3 works as I use one
Interesting. One port or both? One port would be "only" 12W, which is roughly half of what the Player PSU does (22W).
That would also mean that two ports on the CIOKS SOL should suffice ....
The KPP power supply is 9v 2.5A so the Voodoo PP3 has more than enough. At 12v 2A
KPP needs 9-12v and 2A to work properly.
The issue with most power supplies for pedal boards is that they do not have enough amperage to power the KPP properly. The CIOKS SOL is only 9v 660mA or 12v 500mA , so not enough unfortunately.
The CIOKS DC7 with the Crux power add on would work.
Voodoo Labs PP3 or PP3 Plus, using the X-Link output for KPP. Works perfectly
I own one of these myself. I gig it regularly. I see you have the upgraded screws, blocks and thumb wheels for the FR trem. You can also get stainless or titanium screws for the nut lock as well.
I disabled my cut / kill switch as I keep hitting it accidentally. I also put in a 3way switch instead of the 5 way (just my preference)
If you want just a basic Kemper and not big on effects, don’t need to profile rigs of your own. The Player might be the way to go.
Plus when you sell the bigger unit you have now you will have money left over to maybe invest in the Kemper Powered Kab (highly recommend this) or your pedal board and power supply (Voodoo Labs PP3 to save money). Maybe even buy a cool fuzz pedal to go with it all.
Loving this addition to Rig Manager, especially now that I use my KPP a lot more. 👍