Trying to set up wah the way I have always been used to...

  • I do see the need for it, I am going to work with trying to faking it out today, by trying to "teach it" less of the sweep on purpose. I don't know if the calibration is a "continuous learner/aka on learning all the time" or if it only learns when you want it to. It's kind of weird how it doesn't "process" your calibration, like tell you it's "done and learned" so to speak. That little bar just sits there and goes back and forth and there is no "wrap up or okay you did it dude" notification.


    I'm guessing that it must be calibrating only after you push the button, and until you exit the screen, grtrzndrums. It wouldn't make sense to offer the facility if it were updating continuously IMHO.

    Definitely interested to see if you can teach it the reduced range and then park the wah below it to disengage, with none of that pesky retriggering. Look forward to hearing how you go mate.

    And Monkey-man I did the Zip download and SO AWESOME! Loved it. You saved me "days" maybe even "weeks" thank you!


    Woohoo! My pleasure, mate. ;)

  • Well, after much playing around with this... I found the problem. Here is how it went, and it's now very clear what's happening and I could see this issue coming up on similar type pedals as well, so it may be a noteworthy archive.

    What didn't work and the smoking gun? Morley, Kemper?
    I tried tricking the calibration on the kemper by adding different levels of business cards/drink coasters (whatever was laying around) shoving that under the heel pinch point and recalibrating with a couple sweeps and exiting. This proved useless. In the heel/down position the wah would still stay on 50% of the time (when set up to be heel/off) depending on how hard you wanted to stand on the heel. (and we can't have that now, can we? NO!)

    Sooo... time to take $h4%# apart, right? and we did!!!

    Opened up the Morley M2 which has a pretty simple operating principal. It's basically a linear potentiometer (not a rotory) (think fader pot on mixing console) and it has two pieces of fishing line on both sides of the pot that connect to both the toe and then the heel of the pedal. Basically we have a tug-of-war game going on to make the pot move. Additional note. There is a little spring that keeps a small amount of tensioning pressure on the fishing line on one side only. (it actually favors the adding strength to the toe side of the M2) I noticed the most subtle hint of relaxed fishing line on the heel side when in the heel position and notices the calibration meter on the Kemper was kind of bouncing registering the slightest amount of signal. I realized the Kemper wants to see NOTHING in the heel position. I realized I needed that line to not be relaxed as I could tell it was not zeroing out the linear pot all the way over to one side, like it should be (it was subtle, but yet present) and the Kemper was confirming this by showing a little signal registering. Being old school with the vast knowledge of using weapons like band aids, bubble gum and duct tape for all fixes in life, I pulled the relaxed side fishing line out of the unit, tied a frickn knot in it and reinstalled it. BAM!!!!!! problem solved!!!!! Heel zeroes out every time, kemper turns wah off every time!!!!

    Hindsight and Monday morning quarterbacking the situation...

    The knot actually puts too much tension as the heel fully tightens the line before reaching physical heel bottom position (what I'm saying is one box knot takes up too much line and gives too much pressure to the pot and I guess if I stood real hard on it, I could potentially break the line or pot now) Looking back, I think twisting the line a couple times or adding small washer to the mating connection may work better and I might still do that. However the pedal works great as it should to get me through the show tonight and I just need to be careful with it until I get more time to mess with the exact length of this fishing line. That IS what the problem is for anyone else who has encountered similar problems.

    Moral of the story: Morley makes a nice M2 pedal, beefy in build and feel sweeps the kemper nicley, but it's not perfect and it won't zero the Kemper. They may need to take a better look at this as this is clearly THE PEDALS FAULT I AM SCREWING AROUND WITH THIS WHEN I SHOULD BE REHEARSING FOR THE SHOW TONIGHT!

    Cheers, brother and sisters! THE POT IN WHATEVER PEDAL YOU HAVE HAS TO ZERO ALL THE WAY(no room for error here, no forgiveness) l!!!!! And, yes Monkey-man... even though this is not Kemper's issue, I still think they need to add a forgiveness window on the zero point. Let's just say this thing operates on a 0-10 volt principal, Kemper needs a program feature on the pedal calibration page for wah that allows us to set 1 or 2 volts = OFF. Totally agree with you!

    Thanks for the help and contributions everyone!

  • Being old school with the vast knowledge of using weapons like band aids, bubble gum and duct tape for all fixes in life


    Same here. Show me a proper tool and I'll probably scratch my head, wondering what it is. LOL

    Well done on the fix, mate. Probably best to get that line sorted, as you suggested; the last thing you need is for it to snap during a performance.

    For anyone else reading this, it's probably worth noting that this heel-triggering situation, and it can happen in any position, isn't always a matter of travel restriction as it is in this case. More often than not, I'm guessing, it's caused by dirty pots or resistor strips that allow intermittent leaking of charge, causing spikes which would trigger the Kemper or any other such device's detectors into thinking a foot has been moved on the pedal. This is most certainly what has happened with my 1980s MIDI-volume pedal, which not only triggers in the heel position in the same way grtrzndrums' does, but is rough and stair-steppy throughout its range, something that can be easily verified in the MIDI-CC view of any DAW.