I use the KRK V6 as monitors, while recording and playback
It can be problematic - for some - to monitor on speakers while recording. Or rather, the direct sound of the pick hitting the strings can skew the perception of the tone, making the recorded tone seem more dull/lifeless. That's why I asked.
But you say you've tried using headphones as well.
first of all thanks for all the answers
Michael_dk I used the monitor function included in cubase. I switched later between the monitor function in cubase and the direct monitiring from the focusrite.
Bakersounds I tried that in the very beginning but honestly I couldn´t mke it happen. Maybe I have to dig a little deeper in how that works... Dou you have any helpful links to threads or videos for that?
BayouTexan I´ll try that, the gain on fhe focusrite was off to very low and the gain at the profil was like 5-7/10. I´ll try changing that too.
DonPetersen so you think it´s something different than the conversion? I´m sorry for asking, english is not my mother language
Bu are you monitoring on headphones, or on speakers? When recording, or when playing back?
I really wouldn't suspect the converters in this day and age - at all.
How are you monitoring while recording?
I think part of the reason it takes so long to boot is some self-checks it does every time it is turned on. This is speculation, of course - I have no idea of how extensive such boot testing is.
Thanks for all the help guys. I've re-done my rigs to have all distortion and clean sense set to zero, and then just rebalanced the gains and volumes as needed. Took a little work, but at least now everything is set up right. I created the 2 input presets that I needed and everything now works as I'd hoped. It was worth it in the end.
Great to hear!! 
Right. That's why I'm saying, I get how it works. My question now is, for the DS values, if I increase them to bring them back to zero, I'm assuming I'll then need to go into my gain for that rig and turn it down a bit to get the overall sound/gain back to where it was before I turned up the DS levels, correct? Similarly, with the clean sense changes, if I turn those up or down, then I'll need to adjust the rig volume in the other direction to get everything back to the same overall volume as before, correct?
More or less correct.
I think for clean sens, the answer depends on the rigs in question, since it functions differently (and has a different purpose).
I'd go through the rigs and see the DS value most commonly used (maybe within some suitably small interval, it might not mean a lot in the grand scheme of things), and use that as the overall value for whatever guitar you normally use (lock and save the input section). Then adjust the DS value and gain of the other rigs accordingly. Less work that way.
Then you may still need to look at the CS parameter. use your ears.
By the way, while the DS is an offset to the gain value, they don't use the same scale. So +3 on DS is not the same as +3 on the gain knob, so use your ears here also.
Correct. What I'm saying is, it just sets them all TO the same value, rather than increasing them equally by the same amount.
For example, let's say I have distortion sense on one rig set to -5.0 and another rig set to -1.0. If I turn the distortion sense from -5.0 up by an amount of 2, now that rig is set to -3.0. What I'd want is for the other rig that is currently at -1.0, to then be turned up by the same amount (2), resulting in it going from -1.0 to +1.0. But instead of turning each rig up by the same amount, all distortion sense does is turn them TO the same amount. So in this case, the rig that was at -1.0 isn't turned up by 2. It'd actually be turned DOWN by 1 so that it's at the same -3.0 level as the other rig.
Think of the Dist sense not in terms of individual rigs, but as a "preset for certain guitar".
Don't change it for the individual rigs. Instead, lock the input section, and save the input section with its dist sense as e.g. "Stratocater". Forget the individual rigs.
The Distortion sense can be thought of an offset to the gain value of all rigs in the Kemper (only the ones that are actually distorting, not the clean ones - if I recall correctly). So you won't see a change in the gain value of individual rigs. Simple and easy.
If you're checking the gain levels of the rigs, you're looking in the wrong place.
NOTE: I dont play loud. That extra high freq may be a good thing at volume. I will have to do some profiles some day. I have heard people say a TubeScreamer and the DSL are all you need for metal. Maybe they are playing really loud.
Yeah, that's something I've heard as well - that there is some bad high frequency stuff going on until the amp is turned up loud.
Thanks, I was curious, since I have a DSL 20 HR (I think) - that came out some years back, that is supposedly better than the earlier versions. I never turn it on though (in fairness, my Kemper doesn't get turned on a lot either; life with small kids and an old house :-))
Hmmm. I have a DSL40C and I am not a fan of it. I put in a good Eminence and it got better, but it has this ridiculous high frequency that I cant get rid of. Its built into the power amp section or something, using effects loop makes no difference. It is always there. I always run it with treb and pres full off and its still too much.
The irony is I cant even hear highs anymore and its still too much for me
The good part is the DSL is so bad, it prompted me to get my Kemper.
Is this the new or the old DSL40? (sorry, can't remember when the new ones were release, so I'm not very specific here)
Another thing to note is that the initial profile that you used to make the DI can be muted/or deleted. Yo don't have to include that one because that's usually why you reamp -- to get a better sound on the next run.
Yeah, good point - because that one will NOT be aligned in time with the reamped ones
i think they can´t line up perfectly as every "amp" alters the Waves anyways - am i right?
Yeah, the waveforms will not be exactly alike - but sometimes you are able to see that one starts significantly earlier than the other one when zooming in. Especially if you start with a good, sharp transient.
Try zooming in as much as possible on the recorded tracks, to see if they indeed line up.
Do you have any plugins loaded in the session - anywhere?
I wonder what you're monitoring on?
Wow, and this thread was nearing its two year anniversary for no further replies. What a shame.
I dunno...
I must admit I opened up the manual to slam the OP with "look at page xx, it's right there". But I decided against that, because I definitely agree with the manual not being very accessible on this point.
Yes, you can dig out the information, but not very well described in my opinion, and definitely not well structured. Sorry to say. It's almost 400 pages, it would make sense (for me at least) to have a more structured overall explanation. I understand the frustration.
As I remember it, it was much more accessible when I got my profiler back in the day (OS version 3.x, can't remember when that was).
My two cents.
Kemper have already stated that some of the functionality which is in the player/editor including pedals isn’t live yet but will be added in the next update or at least an update in the very near future.
I haven't seen them state anything like this. Do you have a link?
You can see which Tone stack has been used but that doesn’t necessarily mean a true liquid profile has been created. You can retrofit any tone stack to any existing profile but that isn’t the same as making a liquid profile where the volume and tone knobs are matched to the amp being profiled.
Ah, in that sense. I get it.
I don’t see any way that the Kemper itself can know what type of profile it is useing
Huh?
Can't you see it in rig manager, e.g. which tone stack has been used?
(I haven't played with it myself)
There are two general electric bass setup approaches. One is very low action which requires softer string plucking and that results in less sustain. The other is higher action which allows for harder plucks and more sustain. These two scenarios are also kind of dictating how the amp/compression is setup. I am in the low action camp and like a hotter amp as a result. To get a smooth bass sound, I want less of a transient when plucking, more sustain from the amp/compression. This creates a smoother bass tone. I let the amp do the work not the string. My opinion is that most bass players in general hit the strings too hard and the result is not as pleasing. This is my opinion regarding fingestyle plucking.
Slapping is very different situation than what I am discussing. Also, many players just prefer a more aggressive right hand approach. Bass strings have always 'told' me to pluck lightly.
What kind of music do youplay I wonder?
And what is your experience re. effect on the clackiness of the two approaches you mention?
