Posts by GCNC8068

    Could it just be the " its got real tubes placebo"? I'm gonna keep messing around with it but so far the Kemper isn't getting replaced.

    I think this is 100% the case. Some folks will just never, ever give up tubes. And I get it to some degree ... I used fantastic tube amps for decades and i do miss them. But dropping a few 12ax7's in a pedal is not the same ... especially the TK's bit about a 12ax7 phase inverter replicating power amp tubes and iron characteristics. Silly.

    It also makes sense as a minimalist replacement for an amp with 2 or 3 channels and a couple of basic FX. Basically a simple pedalboard and an amp that all firs in the pocket of my gig bag. That’s one of the things I find really useful. We use a rehearsal studio with a really great PA and monitors so I just take the XLR out into the desk and off we go.

    this seems to me to be the case for the Player ... an easy way for a new user to access all the Kemper universe of rigs and implement that into their existing pedalboard. Basically, use your pedalboard and access every amp in the universe (and some additional effects as well). I wish this had been available years ago when I switch from a 3-amp rig and pedalboard to Kemper. I would have been thrilled to use a Player to replace my amps, add a few custom effects, but keep my pedalboard.

    with any used Kemper, I'd do a factory reset and then restore your reference KPA backup. Start clean then restore.

    I have a Rack and it takes what to me is a surprisingly long time to boot up (I have only the rigs I use on the Rack - probably less than 20). It's horrible if you have to reboot at a gig.

    I totally agree. For my use, the Kemper is 98% there as-is. Higher definition color screen would be great just for being able to see things more easily. And direct entry of parameters in Rig Manager should just be a no brainer ... just do it already.

    The better screen, unfortunately, it not an easy retrofit and I can't see buying a new Kemper just for that unless there were some other extremely useful upgrades.

    I’m not sure I’m following the “morph lite” concept. Was the idea that effect button 1, for example, would change delay time on a delay? How would that button know you wanted that result as opposed to turning effect 1 off and on (its current function)? Would you have to leave the effect slot 1 empty for the above delay action to work? If so, that’s not a good trade in my mind when there are several other ways to get the same result.

    but downloads don't mean ratings ... one cannot assume every user who downloaded a rig rated it. In fact, the internet being what it is, I imagine a lot of people download profiles and never rate them.

    In other forums new Kemper users frequently ask what's the best way to get high quality profiles ... I always suggest joining this forum and looking for which paid vendors have the best reputations and reviews, and buy a few of the amps they are after. I liken Rig Exchange to walking into the US Library of Congress and trying to find a good book. There's just too much there without any good way to curate it. The ratings and downloads are a step, but tying the ratings number to the number of ratings would be excellent (pretty much the Amazon model).

    I was surprised to see that the much heralded Morgan AC20 (by rmpacheco), that gets rave reviews here (and much deserved), only has a 4.42 rating, but is the most downloaded rig on Rig Exchange.

    Really, the only thing that is trustworthy is your ears. What might be a 5 star for one can be a single star for another.

    While ultimately that's true, when looking through 1000's of profiles any way to sort or "profile" the profiles is welcome. I use Amazon reviews the same way, recognizing they can be "gamed" and inaccurate, but it gives me someplace to start. Plus, I would imagine the Rig Exchange coding is already collecting the number of reviews to establish the "average" rating shown.

    I see the NC, Player and their ilk a little differently. There is a massive audience of players who are beginners, midlevel, good, and very good who do not make their living in music. It’s a creative passion, fun hobby, weekend gig opportunity, “dad band” project, etc. Those who have been in it for a good while have often developed pedalboards that they love. This new series of modeler “pedals” lets those users keep their pedalboards and replace their amps - with all the amps of their dreams.

    Many of this audience aren’t interested in replacing their efx, or diving into deep tweaking of amp models. It’s a 95+% accurate model of every amp they can imagine in one little box. If these had been around 10 years ago I would have been all over it - I loved my pedalboard and my amps, but the entire multi-amp rig was too big, complex and overkill for the bar gigs we played. The Player, NC, Tonex, etc. would have been perfect. Give me all the amps and let me keep my pedalboard.

    So, to me, that’s more of the target market for these devices. If you want all the efx, capture/profiling ability, tweaking every aspect of a profile, then buy the bigger units. Doesn’t seem fair to critique the smaller units for all they don’t have compared to the bigger units.

    You could simpy make two different ouput presets and switch between them depending on whether you are playing guitar or bass.

    That would work, but I set up my Kemper for “live” use even in the rehearsal space, so I don’t want to have to tweak it changing instruments. I’ve set up performances for the Strats, LP’s, Tele’s, and acoustics (and now, bass) that are all tweaked for the guitar being used so I just switch and go. Pretty much how I would manage “real” amps with different guitars (if I had a roomful of amps ;))

    as I'm now going in and changing the high cut and low cut in the cabinet section of each performance rig ... I Agree!!! I'm using a macbook air with a trackpad (no mouse) and man is it frustrating trying to get directly to the values I want. Hard to believe Kemper have not made a "double click and enter the value" function on every knob in Rig Manager.

    Yes.

    You probably should only use global high and low cuts for FOH to tailor the house system sound.

    that's why I originally used the output high and low cuts ... so it would just hit the FOH as the Kemper was being used 100% for guitar. However, because I now also have bass going out, I'll need to tweak the high/low cut of each rig and leave the Output pretty much alone (zero'd out).

    Thanks for the quick responses! I'm in the music room now getting ready to start tweaking :)

    Ok guys, I need a logic check. Currently I have Hi and Low cut filters set in the Output section of my Rack ... this appears to apply to all rigs and performances (as I had intended). The high and low cuts make the FOH sound much more "natural" (they are set at ~250hz and ~9600hz).

    I've just bought a Sire P5R P-bass and am setting up a performance just for a few bass profiles ... the issue is my high and low cut output settings also affect the bass performances, which is a bad thing at the settings I'm using for guitar. So, reading the manual, it seems I should set the high and low cut settings in the Cabinet section and not the Output section so that the high/low cut can be set for each Rig in the performances. If accurate, I can set different high/low cut filters for the guitar rigs vs the bass rigs.

    Do I have that correct?

    Thanks in advance,

    Greg

    Ruefus thanks for the info, maybe I'll buy a Helix next (as my Kemper is effectively a write-off).

    If I owned the company, and knew how many UK customers I had (I'm guessing numbers in the thousands) and knew the barriers they were facing with regards repairs, I would spend the day finding a UK based technician to help them out (teach them how to remove a few screws and plug a ribbon cable in).

    I think you have to take that up with Parliament (the government body, not the band - although taking it up with the band would be more fun, and at least as productive:)).

    I don't think 1/4" plugs are ferrous, and thus not magnetic ... unless the core of the plug is (which I doubt ... iron corrodes). Just tried a magnet on several 1/4" guitar plug and none were magnetic. I believe most guitar plugs are nickel, and thus a magnet won't work. The drill bit or superglue options might work. YouTube shows some folks having luck using a screw to catch on to the stuck tip. "Easy outs" (screw extractors) as mentioned above could also work (your local hardware store likely has them).