Posts by NotScott

    Practice using a floyd rose and you will be able to get the bubble to be less bouncy. ;)

    My Floyd guitars all have buckers so no issues with noise on the high E. Once you learn how to tune a Floyd, they are pretty simple though. ;)

    The problem is definitely EMI. If I move the guitar to minimize the buzz, the tuning stabilizes. I just find it odd that my old, analog Peterson strobe isn't affected by the noise and neither is my Helix FX nor Shure GLXD16.

    I have a toaster running the latest OS and have had a problem with the tuner for some time now. With single coil guitars, using the strobe function, the high E string bounces all over the place, whether I try to tune to the attack or the steady state of the string and whether I use the open string, fretted at 12th fret or harmonic. All other strings work fine. It works fine with humbuckers and quiet pickups. Any ideas or suggestions? Thank you.

    I tried reverting my head back to OS and I received an error message so I am stuck with the buggy upgrade for now. One thing I discovered today is that it appears to be linked to the Low Shift control in the Cabinet section. If you move the Low Shift off of 0.0 or stored a rig with a value other than 0.0, you get the nasty nasal tones that cannot be dialed out.

    I also seem to notice a general lack of high end overall but perhaps that is just my ears being worn out dicking with the Low Shift weirdness.

    Kemper has been great about responding to customer issues so I expect this to be sorted out soon. Hopefully my observations can help.

    Have you tried the Kemper DI yet? Maybe just make a few and report the quality of profiles you’re getting. I’m curious about tips on getting good direct profiles as well. Mine seem to get an exaggerated mid hump around 700-800hz and that gets worse in the octave from 1.4k-1.6k. I have to use most stomps, mod and x slots just cleaning up the artifacts.

    It took forever to get levels set so that the Kemper would accept the DI signal levels but, I was finally able to make some direct profiles of my RedPlate RP-40. A pushed clean tweed setting was closest to sounding like the original amp when I used the amplifier's line out. When I used the Kemper DI, the resulting profile was down in level 3dB and sounded a bit congested compared to the original and the line out versions. And yes, I compensated for the gain differences.

    When I went into the overdriven tweed channel of the amp, the resulting direct profile did have that same mid bump you mention. It appears to be centered right about where the Middle tone control is centered. I had to dial the Middle back and dial up the Definition to clean up the profile. It was also more compressed than the original so, I dialed back the gain a bit and bumped up the Definition a hair more.

    So far, I am confident I can take these profiles I made and make them sound good for my gigs but, making them sound exactly like the original amp is going to take some trial and error. Hopefully I can find more tips and tricks around here before I get to my larger amps.

    Mine came in the same packaging, but was held tightly to the cardboard by the plastic over-wrap.

    There is a picture of the inside of the Kemper DI out there on the web, it's as solid-of-a-state as you can get inside there. Seriously, you could run over it with a car, and if the chassis survived, the internal components did too. Don't spend another second worrying about it, tomorrow it'll work just fine. Enjoy!

    Yeah, I saw the pics too and it does look like a sturdy unit. The packing just looked like something you would expect from a Malaysian eBayer.

    Monday I will have time to start trying some profiles. I hope the DI survived the shipping. I will start with my Tweed Deluxe and AC10 SRT, They are both low watt amps that I can bear doing repeated blastings with.

    I just received my Kemper DI so I can start making direct profiles of my amplifier collection.

    First, I opted for the free shipping from Kemper USA. This is how the unit arrived:

    [Blocked Image:]

    It was just rattling around inside this oversized box with no packing materials of any type and no sealing of the box. It just had the tab folded in. It is not exactly a delicate unit and I did opt for the free shipping but, I would expect at least an attempt to show pride in one's job and/or care for their products and customers .

    Second, can anyone offer any tips and hints in addition to the manual that can help me get the best possible direct profiles? Thanks!

    I bought a Korg PC1 for open mics and any gigs where I didn't have my tuner-equipped Kemper or other pedal boards with me. It worked great in quiet environments but was absolutely useless in any noisy environment, i.e, a stage. Does anybody recommend anything that will actually work in noisy environments and is chromatic? Thanks!

    Thanks but my old Vox/Dunlop and my Tease RMC2 both had better tapers than what I had programmed. I spent some time the other day auditioning all of the wahs I have in my Kemper. I adjusted a couple that are better suited to my needs. I will try them at tonight's gig.

    As for the wah and boost turning on when powered up into Perform mode, I haven't figured that one out yet.

    I am using a Mission EP1-KP as a wah using switch activation and another EP1-KP as a volume pedal with a slight boost programmed for the switch. Both are wired into my foot controller. I have two issues that I could use some help with:

    1) If I power on the Kemper into Perform mode, both the wah and the boost turn on. They have been stored as off in my performances. However, if I power up the unit into Browse mode, they do not automatically turn on. If I then switch to Perform mode, they stay off. I know someone here mentioned changing a setting for the type of switch to fix this. I believe I tried it a while ago and it did nothing for me but that was a while ago. Anybody have a solution for this?

    2) I like the wah that I have programmed. However, all of the action seems to be concentrated near the end of the pedal travel. What parameters do I need to change in order to maintain the current sound but just adjust the pedal sweep so that everything isn't occurring within a small range near the toe position? Thanks!

    For small gigs like that, I use custom made 1x12 pine cabinets loaded with EVM 12S with my powered head. I just store an EQ curve in my performances that allow me to shape the cab response but leave the direct out alone. I have done dozens of gigs like this over the past few months and have never received anything less than stellar reviews on my sound. The cabs are small, lightweight and extremely reliable.

    I have tried FRFRs and they just sound unnatural to me, particularly in the high end.

    @NotScott is that a PRS Santana? How you like it?


    Yes, it is a Santana, a 25th Anniversary to be precise and I love how it feels and how it sounds. I have 20 guitars but the Santana is one that always comes to a gig. What I like most about it is that it has a short scale (24.5"), 10" radius fingerboard and a fat neck profile like a mid-50s Les Paul, so it feels and plays more like a vintage Les Paul or SG and not like a modern PRS with those wide, thin, flat necks. The trem stays in tune very well and with a couple of coil-splittable Bare Knuckles humbuckers, I can easily get Les Paul and Strat-like tones out of it.

    The only negatives about the guitar are some players feel cramped high up on the fretboard by the shorter fret spacing due to the shorter scale. I wish the trem bar was screwed into the bridge and not just pressed in place with a nylon washer holding it. I have pulled it out of place with some excessive whammy bar use. And finally, PRS has constantly changed the neck and control layouts on the Santanas, so not all Santanas are created equal.

    Overall, if I could only have one guitar to do everything, this would be it.