Posts by dfdfan

    This. 16ohms is probably your best bet as I believe that HK cab is rated at 100 watts. Keep in mind that the overload protection circuit in the kemper is to protect the kemper, not the cabinet.

    You can use either with the kemper as it only has a mono power output and can accept 4, 8 or 16 ohms without issue.
    If the cab switch is set to mono, you will feed all 4 speakers in mono.

    If the cab switch is set to stereo you will only be feeding 2 speakers still in mono and the other 2 speakers will be silent.
    The ohms wont matter to kemper aside from a change in volume and punch really. 4ohm mono will be more immediate and louder whereas 16ohm mono will be a little more laidback as it reduces the kemper ouput.
    In order to feed stereo to the cab you need to hook up 2 amps, one to each input and if they are tube amps you'd need to use the 8ohm tap on each.

    Sorry guys but no food or drinks anywhere near my studio & guitars !

    What if it was built into the amp?

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    Don't know if this guy is still in business but I got a good WFT is this guys thinking kinda laugh.

    Yes in your example 7k is the lowest corner frequency. The simple view is what you describe, but there is a complex set of interactions above 7K. It is not as if the 8k shelf wasn't there. In fact, linear, time invariant filters are additive in the strict sense of the word. So, the rolloff is steeper and the phase and group delay is more complex.

    Yeah but the question is, is that really relevant in a performance setting? I would posit that there's no need for that kind of depth. Studio maybe, but there you'd be better served by outboards anyway. I'm all about the K.I.S.S. method as I've found that the best approach is to keep it simple. Use the cab filters to lock in the profile and the output filters for fluidity in the situations that change day to day. Just my preference though.

    I think an easy way to look at this is, if you want to apply eq filters to a specific rig, use the cab block filters and store them within the rig. Leave your output wide open. Repeat for each rig as needed.

    Then when you get to a gig, if the venue is particularly bright or boomy, you can use the output section filters to eq all your entire output globally for the room. And if you are running to a board, leave your output filters wide open and let the FOH engineer apply the filters on the board for the crowd mix. So essentially, the output filters can be considered a room eq bandaid to use when needed based on venue.

    And remember that using both is not additive, only subtractive, so if you shelve everything from 7k up on the cab and then shelve off 8k and up on the output, you're still only passing up to 7k. Lowest number wins. Visa versa, if you shelve 8k on the cab and 7k on the output, you're still only passing 7k.

    i know this is a bit off topic, but curious as to the basis of that statement. To whom do you refer to?

    Yes, i agree, there are far more home/bedroom players than gigging musicians. After all, thats how we all started and 99% of us started playing because we enjoy it not as the path to our main income.

    There are still plenty of people that still make a living gigging and studio for hire who do not bother with social media stuff. Not as much as the decades prior, but still plenty.

    Simply because the Kemper Player is cheaper and smaller, that's the main reason. People don't need more, but these restrictions are too cruel, we need a little more options. As I said, wanting a morph and global EQ or a simple volume boost for free effect slot is too much? that should be the basis.

    THIS. Being able to cram a plexi and a twin into a gigbag pocket is absolutely invaluable for old farts like me.

    In all fairness, I said without trading in every 2 years. I didn't say 12 years! You're certainly getting your money's worth on that machine :)

    Ok , that worked in the sense that without that text you can’t really even use the unit to be honest so that’s a must have. It’s still very touchy though you wouldn’t want to bump the knob accidentally

    If you're trying to get a bedroom level, make sure poweramp boost is off. That should get you a better range to work with lower volumes.

    Most likely this will work if you can get the curve right.

    Kone will be something similar to:

    Compared to a new issue greenback:

    So you should just have to get a steep enough drop but not a full block.

    There are other factors to consider in cone stiffness and magnet type and size but all in all I'd say give it a whirl. Even if it doesn't work well you still you end up with a kemper 412.