Posts by DigitalBliss

    Yes, that is a workaround, and that is what I do, but this bug messes up more than just the lack of a store button. All the windows inside rig manager can be effected. Just yesterday, for example, I wanted to audition rigs from a rig pack, and I kept having to restart RM because I couldn't see the inspector window (the list window was scrunching it up). It's a real pain.

    I opened a ticket on this 5 months ago. A few months after that, I requested an update and they said they recognize there is a problem and that it would be fixed in a future update. They did not give a date.

    That sounds pretty good to me. The reason the Mesa Boogie profiles didn't sound right is because they are missing a lot of the midrange eq that Tom D added to get that sound. This video is pretty good at discussing and mimicking his setup (this is not me), but if he's right about using the marshall before the mesa, he's not really getting the same effect by putting it afterwards. I actually think it needs a bit of both. I play this song too, and here is my rig. Try it if you like. I use the free Mesa Boogie Dual Rectifier Ch3 R by Ian Sandoval on the rig exchange. Then I add the green scream stomp to slot B. The settings are Drive 0, Tone 10, Vol 0, Mix 100%. This stomp brings up the mids before distortion to get a cleaner, less fizzy, sounding distortion. That's not enough mids though, so I add a studio eq after the amp in slot X. After loading the default, the settings I changed are Low Gain -11db at 120Hz, Mid1 Gain +6.5db at 1750 Hz with q=.34, and Mid 2 gain +6db at 2115 Hz with q=.707. On the Kemper front, I have my gain at one led past noon, but I noticed when I tried your settings above, that I needed more gain than you had in post in order to match the tone in the video (I have a pretty low output bridge pickup). So try setting the gain at noon or a bit less, as a starter and go from there. All my kemper tone stack knobs are at noon. If you try it, let me know what you think.

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    It's the same in windowed mode. Except a little more of the bottom is cut off. Are you running windows 11? I may try to uninstall it and reinstall it. When it asked me to upgrade, I said yes, and it went through it's paces, and then the installer just disappeared, and my desktop shortcut produced an error when I tried to start rig manager. Usually an installer will say it's finished, so I figured it failed. I manually removed my desktop shortcut, and I proceeded to reinstall, and when I clicked the .msi file it gave me three choices, I picked the repair option, and this time it actually got to the end and said it was finished, so it looked like it installed correctly that time. I'm heading out of town, so I'll be away from my music stuff for a while, but I'll check in here to see if anyone else has the same problem. If not, I'll file a ticket when I return. Thanks for trying to verify it.

    Good question, my taskbar hides automatically, so it's not in view. I was hesitant to post a screen shot, because the look is a little different based on how I configure the screen, but here is what I usually see. In this shot you can't see any of Mats rigs either (although they do show when you click the little triangle above and to the left of Mats name).

    I run RM on a windows 11 laptop. It has a native resolution of 1920x1080. The default screen scale is 150%. RM has been working well in past versions, but I just downloaded the new RM (3.3.45) and looks nice and sharp, but the bottom of the editor display is cut off. No red buttons on the lower right, and the numbers below the second row of knobs (like on an amp) are cut off. It also doesn't work well on 125%, but if I set the scaling to 100% it works fine. Everything is super small though, and my desktop icons are about 1cm square. I would hate to keep it that way just to run RM. Can anyone confirm? Thanks.

    Hi All,

    I'm using the Alternate Input and Return jacks on the back of the toaster (mine has no power amp) as inputs for stereo backing tracks I jam along to. I have two studio monitors connected to the main xlr outputs and an active FRFR monitor connected to the monitor output (I use either the mains or the monitor, but not at the same time). When I use the studio monitors on the main outs, I have the Aux In >Main setting set to 10.0 (Output section page 7/8), and I adjust my rig volume to a level that seems to mix well with the backing track. So far so good. My question is, when I use the single FRFR monitor, and turn off the mains, I have to dial down the Aux In >Monitor setting to 3.1 to match the same relative volume of my guitar (I leave the rig volume the same). Does anyone know why that is? Why I have to attenuate the aux level so much when using the monitor output? It makes me think I have another setting somewhere else that is either boosting the aux level into the monitor signal path, or is attenuating the aux into the mains signal path.

    Thanks

    @nejo_hh, that's a great writeup. Thank you for taking the time to post it. What tool are you using to do the math? Matlab, Octave, other? and what platform are you on, Windows? Mac? other? I did a lot of this at work (I'm a retired engineer), but looking for a tool to use at home. Thanks again, and if this wanders too far from the original intent of the post, I can take this off the board and chat via private conversation if you prefer.

    One thing you can try is take the JBLs off the stands. When a speaker is on a stand it's sort of "free-radiating" and the bass frequencies are spread out in all directions. You can really boost the bass by either placing them on the floor, or against a wall, or to get even more bass boost, try a corner between a wall and the floor. See this link for an explanation of why
    Configure your PA
    If you use the room to your advantage, you probably wont have to max the bass on the Kemper, and you might get by with the smaller JBLs if you aren't driving them so hard. Experiment with placement and see if that helps.

    Hi Rich,
    I tend to agree with your assessment that the Kemper sounds better loud, but I don't think it's because of your speakers or headphones, I think it's because whoever made the profile you were playing was probably playing it loud. As the others have said, If you like a profile loud, you will probably think it sucks at an apartment room level (and the opposite is true also). You can tweak them to sound better at bedroom levels, but it will take you a while working with the Kemper to build up those skills. I've had mine for 4 years and I still haven't figured out a formula to convert a profile which sounds great at gig level to one that sounds great at talking level. I've actually tried keeping two sets my favorite profiles, but I haven't been very successful because my low volume home practice level is never the same. Sometimes low (for me) means talking level, and other time it means playing at home alone but cranked up just enough that neighbors don't complain. So my low volume profiles are really all over the map.

    I'll tell you what I did (which might not be too popular on the forum) but I bought a Yamaha THR10c for my bedroom, and I keep the Kemper set up for mostly band practice levels. Again, I think the reason the Yamaha sounds so great at bedroom levels, is because it simply cant get very loud, so the designers tailored the tone to be really pleasant at the quieter volume. I honestly think it sounds better than most of my tweaked low volume Kemper profiles . Now to be fair, I haven't sat the two units down next to each other and tried to match them one to one, but I have spent weeks chasing a tone I wanted on my Kemper at a low volume, and finally settled for something close but not great. When I bought the Yammy, I was able to dial a similar tone in in in a few minutes. It's just made to sound good at really low levels. Like I say, I probably could get the Kemper to eventually sound great at low volume too, but it would take a considerable amount of time to tweak my 50 or so favorite profiles, and I would have to do it in a controlled environment (always at the same low volume) and honestly, I would rather just plug in and play.

    One of these days I might try to build a reverse Fletcher Munson transform using the studio EQ for one of the curves that best represents the difference between what I consider loud and quiet playing levels. Unfortunately the Kemper has no graphical monitor of EQ, so I' would have to monitor in a DAW, but it would be a fun experiment. Maybe a good project for when I retire from my day job. :)

    Ah if it were just that simple. Every guitar I have has noiseless pickups. I have shielded every one. I have replaced pickups and wiring in most. I have a drawer full of SCs. I even have a few humbuckers in the drawer where the coils were not balanced closely enough. I have searched for the most noise free profiles. I have been struggling with this for years and years. I stayed at my father-in-laws house for about six months a few years back, and it was like heaven compared to my house. There was a little noise, and you could do the trick like point your guitar in the right direction to minimize it to nearly zero, but when I cam back home I almost cried it's that bad.

    Yes, same for me. Since this discussion reminded me of my sorry state, I did a little more research. As it turns out, the wiring and devices in your house can create two types of effects. They can induce electric fields and magnetic fields. Guitar pickups are sensitive to magnetic field variations, and are much less sensitive to electric field variations. This is important because you can get big magnetic fields which can propagate many feet or even meters if your building wiring has stray return paths. If the hot wire and the return wires are right next to each other (as they should be) and current is flowing, the two magnetic fields will nearly cancel each other out and you will get a small combined magnetic field that fade away to nearly zero in about a foot or about 30 cm. If the wiring is incorrect and current is flowing (even small currents like a lamp), and the current finds a return paths through a different wire or even some metal pipe, you can get large magnetic fields which don't cancel and can be detected many feet or even meters away. So I think an electrician having a look for possible wiring errors (and I understand these are common mistakes) would be wise. I myself am planning to retire from my day job in a few months, so I'll probably call someone out then when I have more time to attack this.