Posts by Neonknight

Quote from Guitartone

I was scratching my head and thinking the same thing.

Does everyone know the tuner is always on?

I personally dont own a KPA (possibly in the future), so thats my excuse to maybe not knowing everything about tha KPA, but i got the info about the LED tuner indication, and while that may be a very good thing, i guess that many including me would want to use the more advanced tuner as well and therefore it might not be that good if it is easy to accidentally shut the KPA off. Silent tuning is also a feature that is good on stage which the advanced tuner has.

The LED tuner doesnt indicate which tone/string that is being tuned does it ?

Quote from viabcroce

Mhhh... An option could be showing a confirmation window before actual shutdown... After all, one is not supposed to switch the unit off too often.
There could be other accidental events (random contacts while movin the unit or passing by) by which a confirmation could be handy... And they could always add an option to turn the... option on or off in the general settings

May work or may not depending on whether it is an software off or hardware off switch, if its an hardware off you cant control it through software.
Good idea if possible though !
It really seems like it could be accidentally turned off as it is.

Yeah putting the on/off swith on the chickenhead switch doesnt seem like a good idea to me at all, im surpriced they chose that route, i would definately have gone for a separate switch for that purpose.

Quote from Froschn

A long time ago I've read somewhere that they been considering about a computers keyboard connection. I liked that idea. I guess they put the idea on ice for now or cancelled it at all.

A keyboard connects to the rectangilar USB-A port (host) and not to the square USB-B port (device). It could be a cool idea with a keyboard, i would prefer to have a computer editor though and that would if realised use the USB-B port to connect to a computer.

Quote from djdyer

Thanks for clarifying that Neonknight. Yes I mean the small square one (USB-B) that is normally used to connect a device to the USB-A port (flat rectanguler one) of a computer. Just wanting to confirm that this is fully wired up and ready to be ativiated in a future firmware update.

No problem, i dont know how it is connected and whats going to happen to it, thats up to Kemper to answer. However the standardised way to use an USB-B port is to connect a device (in this case it could be the KPA) to a computer which has the USB-A port (Host). One would think the idea is to connect the KPA to the computer in some way in the future (speculation).

Quote from viabcroce

As regards the proof users have to produce, this is true for the 1-year warranty as well: the manufacturer can always refuse to honor it, if they think it was user's fault. Then you have to prove them wrong...

Well actually at least here the manufacturer or seller have to honor the warranty unless they can prove or make it likely that it was caused by the customer by misuse of the product. The customer can then make a complaint if he/she doesnt agree, in first hand to the manufacturer, second hand to the National Board for Consumer Disputes

Part of my work has actually been handling warranty claims/repairs.

Quote from penatuna

Page 23 on manual... Use USB stick for firmware updates and profile importing.

Thats the rectangular USB-A connector (Host), he means the square USB-B connector (Device) to the right of it.
I dont own a KPA, but It doesnt seem to have a use at the moment, could likely be used for connection to a computer for editing and such if it is implemented in the future.

Quote from viabcroce

Sorry, I was ambiguous... I mean they're obliged to offer at least a 2-year warranty

Sorry, i didnt really mean to comment on your post about 2 year warranty, what i ment to say was there are some that offer a longer period just as a tip.

Here in Sweden, warranty is actually not the law, however in most (if not all) cases you get 1 year warranty and in some 2 years and maybe even more.

Here you do have the right to make a complaint within 3 years of purchase, but then YOU have to prove that the problem is due to how it was manufactured.

In most cases you have 1 year on musical equipment here though, so getting 3 years is a real advantage.

Quote from fretboardminer

A floorboard version is not meant to be a cheaper alternative. It is about saving weight and volume in your suitcase. And I am almost certain that in a few years it will be on offer, once the development of the table version has reached a mature state.

I believe what you quoted was regarding a read only version and not the floorboard version you suggested.

Quote from HappyKemper

I've seen the question about a "Kemper play only" unit answered several times and it would cost almost the same as the available profiling unit to manufacture. So there is no money to be made with a "kemper play only" unit.
.

Quote from fretboardminer

1) Who knows what it would cost?
2) If you add into the equation the overweigth fees you pay to the airlines, the balance will be different. A floorboard version is definitively much more practical on the road, than a table version + foot controller. When you travel you don't do profiling. And at home, when you profile and edit these profiles, you don't need a foot controller.

1) Only Kemper can really answer that of course, but it is my professional guess after working as a product manager in electronics and for a total of 25 years in the electronic business that the hardware difference between a read only version and a profiler is the mic input circuit for the profiling that would be the difference which probably costs next to nothing, you will pretty much need everything else.

2) Again im not saying that its a bad idea with a floor model quite the contrary if you read my previous post. I hope you will get your floor model as well.

Quote from fretboardminer

I will not buy it - I think it is much more reasonable to have a read only version in a floorboard enclosure. I don't want to schlepp a KPA plus a foot controller in my suitcase. You do your profiles and editing at home in the big KPA and then you travel to the gigs with a slim and lightweight floorboard read-only Kemp. That makes sense, right?

A floorboard version isnt a bad idea (not that im that interested in one personally) , a read only version is probably pointless though since it will probably cost the same since it is likely to be little difference in the hardware.

Quote from viabcroce

Hey, no problem! What I'm saying is that when you use a 100 W amp at a loud volume it's actually outputting a very low power (compared to its nominal output power). So that you can use an amp with a loudspeaker rated for a much less wattage as long as you do not open the Master volume all the way up *and* hit the strings very strong

Yes of course you can, but usually the powerhandling of speakers are matched so that it is higher than the output of the amp so that it is unlikely that the speakers get overloaded and breaks.

Its very easy to forget that maybe you set the master volume very high when you did something else or you reseted the KPA or made an update or something that made volume settings change.

I would highly recommend that they at least put some volumecontrols on that poweramp that most poweramps have, not having this may prove expensive for users since it may lead to broken speakers.

Quote from viabcroce

AFAIK, all the goods manufactured in Euroland have to offer a 2-year warranty

If you buy your KPA or any other music equipment from Thomann in germany you get 3 years on everything besides strings and such.
I buy pretty much all music equipment from them since a few years even though i live in Sweden.

Quote from viabcroce

I know where you're from. For less eperienced users, it could be useful to underline that a 100 W amp desn"t output 100 watt if not in extraordinary cases, that is when all its corcuitry is working at high settings and you feed it with a robust and impulsive signal.
Many are astonished at discovering how low a power a guitar amp outputs during normal use... normally, between 5 and 20 in this case. And it"s *loud*!

Hope this gives a useful perspective to some users

Yeah, i for example use the 2x20 watts mesa 20/20 tube poweramp and its about as loud as a 50 watt guitar head ( i do own an old 50 watt Marshall head actually), so thats quite enough for me and most other people im certain.
Tube amps are usually louder than solidstate though, but 500 (2x250) watts solid state sounds ridiculous for guitar really if that is real RMS watts and not the inflated "watts" that is quite common when it comes to homeelectronics .

Note ,im not saying you are calling me less experienced, but i just want to make clear that i have quite a bit experience in both guitarplaying and electronics after playing guitar for 30 years and working in electronics for 25 years.

Sounds like a good idea to have this possibility.

Quote from HappyKemper

By adjusting the output volume knob you get the same useful low bedroom tones if you play a 1000w, 500w or 100w solid state amp.
With ss amps it's desirable to have a LOT of power = headroom left, so you stay as far as possible away from clipping the amp. A tube power amp can be pushed, and it's the opposite with an ss amp.
SS clipping is never good so avoid it with more w power and headroom.
It's always a good reminder to be careful about volume levels so ears or speakers don't blow up.

I agree that you need the headroom, but you also need to be able to protect your speakers from being blown by a 2x250 watt amp (or 500 mono) plugged into in my case a vintage 4x12 speaker with a total of 100 watt mono power handling or even my quite new stereo 2x12 cab with V30´s (60 watts each = 120 watts) that is why it needs some sort of volume control in case your volume is set incorrectly on the KPA or something. I would really hate to have my old vintage 70´s greenbacks blown, not that i would be glad to have the V30´s destroyed either, but they are easily replaced at least.

In a live situation i often use the "in house" speaker cabinets that are often Marshall 1960 4x12 cabs and not even them are rated for 2x250 watts.

Quote from lucky

they are very sturdy also.

Quite affordable and made in Germany as well. Its their own brand, they sell lots of great value products under their own brands.

No disrespect to Kempers own offering which im sure will be very nice.

I havent got a KPA yet at least, i was originally waiting for a rack version, but now i could actually go for the toaster style, ( starting to like it) possibly with the add on built in amp as long as the effect section is much improved with more effects (octave, whammy, slicer mainly) and much control (midi CC´s) like in my Boss GT-pro which has circa 500 different CC parameters.

The main thing is that i want to be able to do everything with just one unit like i do with my GT-pro, its not that i use many effects, i dont, 90% of the time its a dry distorted sound without any effects, but when i need a slicer effect (square modulated tremolo) or whammy its pretty much essential for the song and i would have to use an external effect processor and it wouldnt be as practical as using only one unit or even a rack with two or more units when playing live.

Definately needs a whammy

Hi everybody !

My first post here..

Im not a Kemper owner at least yet (maybe in the future), while i think it seems to be a real breakthrough product and seem to sound very good, im missing some features mainly effects like octave, whammy and slicer effect that i normally use and also good midi control over effects.
Currently i use a Boss GT-pro that i bought when it was released and it has served me well and while it is somewhat of a pain to tweak to get a good amp sound out of it, i have succeded in doing that and it works well both for live and recording through my mesa 20/20 tube poweramp, but it is really not very for direct recording of distorted sounds. The GT-pro has virtually all effects from Boss pedals ever made and with a ridiculous amount of control through midi (ca 500 CC parameters), so it is quite hard to beat in that department and that is what i wish that the Kemper could be better at.

Sorry for going slightly OT here, but i thought i might as well make a small introduction of some sort while doing this post.

As for the amp module, i think it seems great and i actually was going to comment on it in the other thread, but im not allowed to since im not a Kemper owner.
I really like that it is lightweight and made to fit inside the Kemper, i am however a bit concerned about the power output (2x250W ) and the lack of any kind of volume control or power limiting switch (or something), i wouldnt want to turn my vintage 70´s greenbacks into confetti by misstake, these speakers are only 25watts a piece as you might know and in fact even most modern 4x12´s are not rated to handle 500 watts (Marshall 1960 rated 300w for example). 2x250 watts might be fitting for FRFR PA speakers and such though, but for guitarspeakers it might be a problem.