Have you tried using the "Space" preset under the Reverb menus? I believe it's supposed to be the same thing.
In the X32?
Posts by Amcolan
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You could run your amp through Kemper for Space/Monitoring. Or use a Universal Audio Ox Stomp for example - those rooms are even a tiny bit nicer than Kemper Space. With both, Kemper and Ox you could also use the speaker emulation in those units and ditch the Mic on your cab. Endless possibilities.
A cheaper scenario would be a room reverb in your IEM system, if you have fx slots free for that.
I’m running the amp through a Friedman mic no mo right now. With the OX does it allow me to split a signal and have the speaker emulation going to foh and speaker sim/room to my in ears ?
Would the Ox room sim be ideal for FOH or should I not have that in my signal to foh. -
Pure Cabinet isn’t a reverb.
“…mic'ed guitar cabinets often have an unpleasant, “phasey” sound in the highend frequencies – something you don’t get if you listen to a guitar cabinet directly, without a microphone. PURE
CABINET™ will gently polish the sound of the virtual (mic'ed) guitar cabinet to bring it closer the sound of the direct guitar cabinet. The fundamental character of the sound will still be maintained.”
The manual goes on from there.Sorry I mean the SPACE PARAMETER . I believe it’s in the output section for the headphone output. It really helps make in ears sound amazing.
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I have two live rigs, my Kemper rig and my amp rig. Both are being used with in ear monitors. The Kemper sounds great with in ears due to the SPACE settings that creates some space in the IEM’s. Makes it feel like an amp in the room.
Is there a way to replicate this with my amp rig/friedman Mic No mo running into a Behringer x32 rack? Perhaps with a reverb or delay effect? I’m not sure what exactly the “space” is doing to make it add the effect it does. I’m guessing some type of room reverb. -
try the Green Scream - (very) low Gain, Volume boost as needed (-> results in more amp gain) and Tone set to your taste (usually around noon)
add bass with the TonestackThis has always been my go to method with tube amps but since I’ve used digital amps it never seems to react the same way. I used fractal for 10 years and now the Kemper for 2 and the pedal models or even analog pedals in front just seem very different from a real setup. The amp will overload much easier. Even with the TS with gain at zero. With real amps I would run gain zero and volume high as a front end push.
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A high gain amp works by reducing the lows, drastically raising the gain(amplify), then apply some post EQ to bring it back to what it should sound like. If you dont remove the LOWs, the bass will dominate the distortion and go from flubby to a fuzz pedal.
Flub comes from too much bass entering the gain circuit. Meaning the bass is too high BEFORE the amp section.
The Kemper has a DEFINITION control in the Amp section that reduces the lows coming in from your guitar (before the amp). Most Marshall profiles will want the DEF around 6-7. Higher gain profiles may need to go all the way to 10. This also depends on how the profile was made. Sometimes the profile is a mess and has too much bass when it was made so Def needs to be at 10.
If that does not help enough, you can use a Graphic EQ in slot #1 and reduce the bass values. The GEQ will also let you boost mids a little or do some high freq cutting to tame the highs.
I would suggest starting with the DEF at 5 and going up slowly. At some point the guitar may start to sound clearer (it may still be too bassy). Then adjust the GEQ to remove the incoming bass.
A high gain amp may setup the incoming guitar signal to have a freq response similar to this. As you can see the LOWS are all being turned down to reduce flub/mud/bass/rumble. So using the GEQ to lower 64 Hz(-3dB),125Hz (-1.5dB),and 250 is where you want to adjust.
NOTE: I also like to put the noise gate AFTER the GEQ since lowering EQ values reduces some noise itself and makes the gates job easier. YMMV.
Do you place the geq before or after the amp/cab?
When you said add some post Eq, are you referring to the geq block or the Eq in the amp block? -
I’m trying to dial in a 5150 liquid profile I found from the new stock profiles. I can’t remember which one I’ve used. I tried two different ones.
I can’t seem to get the tone to be be higher gain without the low end being flubby. If I dial back the bass and put a low cut on the cab it then sounds too thin and tinny. I can’t seem to find an in between.
Also, I can’t smooth out the high end without making it too dark and muffled. I’m trying to get a smoother higher gain like a brown sound. But it’s always either gritty and fizzy or dull and lifeless. Again can’t seem to dial in an in between
Anyone have any suggestions?
I’m using a humbucker bridge guitar into a Laney 212 FR. -
When making a liquid profile set everything to noon (halfway).
I’ve been putting the tone knobs to noon and the gain to 10 per the manual. Maybe this isn’t possible with such a high gain amp
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I’m attempting to run a liquid direct profile of my 5150 iii 50 W head on the red channel. I put gain all the way way up tone stack at noon, volume at about 11 o’clock. The profile process will not complete. I keep getting an error saying too much noise. Anyone have any ideas what the problem is? Does this amp just have too much gain to be able to profile properly?
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When you're using a DI you can as well put the cab face down on a thick carpet so that the speaker faces the carpet. Additional blanket as BayouTexan said can take away a bit more then.
I do this with my trusty old Rocktron S112 which has a DI included and my fine Celestion CL80 in it. You still get some rumble and pictures off the wall but at least much less of the sharp highs that kill your ears when you're in the same room...
This isn’t bad for the speakers? No room for the air flow. It won’t blow the speakers ?
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Cover the cab with heavy blankets while ensuring the mic has room to capture the tone properly. This technique is called the "poor man's isolation cab booth".
I’m Not using a mic but I will try the blankets.
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So recently i was making some profiles with my amps and suhr reactive load. I was told that the profile should be done with a cab load so i picked up the Kemper DI. It did make a small difference on the latest profile. However, the amount of volume im getting from the cabinet is insane. Its literally knocking pictures off the wall upstairs. Is there any good techniques for muffling the noise a bit so my house doesn't shake apart?
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Hit me up if you’re selling one used. Thanks
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you can find pretty much any statement about literally anything on the web these days, that doesn't surprise me at all.
I did however wonder about the point of bringing this up in this discussion.
anyway, back to topic please
In your opinion, is there a less expensive DI box that yields the same results as the Kemper box? I’d rather not spend $130 if I don’t have too. But if that’s what I have to do I will.
I read through all 12 pages of that old thread and there are so many random opinions that it’s making me just lean towards the Kemper box
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Are one of the DI boxes better than the other? Is it worth the extra money to get the Kemper version vs for example the Behringer g100 or the Art Xdirect?
I have a radial Pro D2. Would that work as a direct box along with the cabinet as the load? Or will one of the direct boxes in the other thread yield better results? -
the point is, that the DI box has to be able to withstand speaker(!) level signals.
please refer to the manual 'PROFILING an Amp', subsection 'How to PROFILE an Amp without a Cabinet (Direct Amp PROFILEs)'
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Is there any DI box that will allow me to either not use the cabinet or bypass the cabinet so I can profile without the cabinet being cranked at full volume? I like the quiet process with the reactive load but I want to get the best profile possible ?
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the point is, that the DI box has to be able to withstand speaker(!) level signals.
please refer to the manual 'PROFILING an Amp', subsection 'How to PROFILE an Amp without a Cabinet (Direct Amp PROFILEs)'
and I saw this. But im still confused on whether the DI box is simply in addition to the cabinet or are we using a DI that can withstand the load and that will protect the amp. Or do we still need to use a cabinet in this case. If were using a DI with no cabinet then isnt that essentially a load box? Like the suhr RL
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So am i running the speaker out of the amp to the passive DI with a speaker cable, then the THRU to the cabinet with speaker cable and the DI out to the kemper with a regular cable?
Will this effectively take the load of the amp so i dont blow the amp?
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So am i running the speaker out of the amp to the passive DI with a speaker cable, then the THRU to the cabinet with speaker cable and the DI out to the kemper with a regular cable?
Will this effectively take the load of the amp so i dont blow the amp?
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Or i have a radial Reamp Box, wonder if that would work
