My DIY Camplifier project

I realize this picture shows very little, but I wanted to share none the less.

Using an IcePower 200asc amp module, I built my own Camplifier. This is the same module used in the Seymour Duncan Powerstage 200. Props to whippinpost91850 for suggesting it. I was going to use a different module, but that one needed some extra pieces to convert the signal.

Unlike Ritter Amps' models, the 200asc has to be placed into the back cavity (its too tall to fit through without angling it) and then attached to the backing plate. Ritter's stuff is literally drop-in. I did this as much to see if my ideas worked (they did) and wanting to do-it-myself as anything. If we include labor....I spent more money than buying one. I learned a lot and am happy with the current result.

The finish on the backplate didn't come out as well as I'd hoped. Despite following the directions on the can (Rustoleum), the color wasn't dry enough before I put the clear over it. Some wet sanding and another few more coats of clear should remedy that, though.

The amp is as quiet as a mouse when not being played, and is plenty loud. Even with the power amp boost down.

Quote from ChristopheSeyler

Could you share how you wired the amp ?

That was actually the easiest part of the whole thing. Below is the module I used and the harness kit for it. With this and the manual, it's rather easy to wire up. AC in is far left, signal in from 3 pins at the long connector, speaker out far right.

When I pull it apart to re-spray the back plate I'll take some pictures. That'll be a few days at least.

Quote from digbob

I used the same Modell and built it in my Passive Kemper Cab, i built a new back for the cab with exact the same Material and size

and the original Tolex, so i didn't have to destroy the original, works and looks great

I thought about doing that as well. I chose to build mine into the Toaster so I could use it with different cabinets. In my case, I've got a passive Kabinet at home, and then loaded a Kone into the cab I usually keep at the rehearsal space. I'm lazy....so I don't have to carry something extra this way.

After playing predominantly with headphones and IEMs for a while now.....I forgot more about what 'amp-in-the-room' means than I thought. Playing with a Kabinet or Kone is *so* much more.....immediate and tactile.

Quote from Frikeer

Have you looked into solutions for only using one power cable? Is that even possible?

What about ventilation? Heat is not a problem?

If by one power cable you mean tying the KPA power jack in with the amp, no. I'm certain it could be done, but this is a case of "If its not broken....don't fix it." Lots more can go wrong opening the KPA for what amounts a minor convenience. It'd be very nice, though.

What I'm investigating is using a 3-way split adapter. One plug into the wall, split into 3 plugs. I'm already running a small pedal board that sits on top of my KPA and have a 2-way splitter, so I know it works well.

As for heat and ventilation, the IcePower stuff doesn't require a fan nor does the manual say a whole lot about ventilation other than to give roughly half and inch clearance from everything. The powered Kabinet uses a similar IcePower unit with no fan and far less ventilation than this setup. I figured if that works in a production item, this should be just fine.

The amp also has it's own temperature protection, but I highly doubt that'll ever come into play.

So I decided to overspray the mounting plate. I got a better finish…..but of course some dust fell while it was wet.

Here are a few shots of the guts. The black material the amp is mounted to is FR4. The same stuff used for PCBs.

Since the amp is larger the opening in the back of the head, I needed a surface to allow new mounting holes. Also, those familiar with the Toaster know the top of the hole has a bent piece of metal that makes a great carry handle. But it also means you can’t mount the amp too close to the opening.

The standoffs and screws are the same as you’d use to build a PC, Arduino or Raspberry Pi. I bought a small kit through Amazon. I used two lengths screwed together because the one-piece (20mm) ones I had would work…but I preferred the extra clearance this slightly shorter setup provides.

With the exception of the input jack (which is soldered), every connection uses a plug or disconnect on both ends.

A little tedious to install, but I used it at rehearsal last night for a couple hours. PLENTY loud. I forgot it was there….which is how a power amp should function. ?

I've actually been using this adapter to power a small, MIDI-switchged pedalboard that sits on top of my KPA. I think I'm going to get a second one of these and daisy chain it to the first. That'll give me options to run 2 or 3 ends depending on the need.

Plus, if a cable fails I only need 1 standard wall to IEC C13 (the most common type) regardless of which one goes down.